Danger – Teenager Hair

Teenager clients tend to be more nervous about change than a seasoned client. They are usually new to hair coloring and are not used to communicating it clearly. Consultations always take longer with a teen. Here our stylist takes the time needed to communicate with her nervous new teen client, Alessandra.

Alessandra 1

Alessandra had an old Ombré that had grown out, there were still light ends but she wanted to add more lightness around her face and at the top. They agreed on Balayage highlights to brighten and blend the darker hair.

Alessandra 2

The Balayage Highlights are hand painted on to the hair

Alessandra 4

Starting to relax

Alessandra 3

The FINAL PRODUCT! Beautiful hair on a beautiful teen, she will be a returning client!

Alessandra 5

 

 

Cool Girl Roots and Unacceptable Hair Color

Two new clients came to see me at Belle de Jour Salon for a haircut, both of them needed their color done but they were just coming in for a haircut. One of them had such extreme roots it was hard to consult on the haircut without first addressing her hair color.

Sometimes roots are cool. A lot of mega-blondes prefer their hair color a week after they have it done because they like the depth of the dark new growth.
I chose this picture of Julianne Hough to show when roots are good and when they are not. Basically anything up to about 1 inch of new growth can be cool. Then you get to the 2 inch range and it just looks bad, like an abandoned plan. Then you go a little longer and get into the 4 inch range and you are back to cool with an Ombré look.
Roots DiagramIt reminds me of when I was a young stylist at Van Michael Salon and a client with grey-ish/greenish hair went into great detail about her haircut. I finally said “What about your color?” and she looked at me blankly and said “What’s wrong with it?” and I had to tell her it was green.
I played again in Photoshop with beautiful Julianne Hough’s picture. I took her makeup off because it is my experience that clients with grey-ish/greenish don’t usually have perfect makeup on. FYI this color mistake often happens when darker haired women try to go megablonde at home with a one step color, they choose an ash color with the hope it will be a pretty and cool toned blonde, but if the ash color grabs on the already blonde ends it is an ugly grey-ish/greenish color which exaggerates bad skin tones and flaws as you can see in these images.
bad Color DiagramGood news. Both new clients have made their hair color appointments with me in the next couple of weeks!

How often should I get my hair colored?

How often should I get my hair colored? I go over this all the time with our hair color clients at Belle de Jour Salon.  

Single Process Color 4 – 8 weeks
This is when hair color is applied directly to the roots and every hair on your head is colored. This may sound extreme and it is true, the more different the Single Process Color is from your natural color, the more frequent you will have to be at the salon, we have clients come in as soon as 10 days for root touch ups. But there are a lot of colors that are more subtle and some of the demi-permanent or semi-permanent grow in and or fade out easy with almost no regrowth, and we have some clients who come in just a few times a year.
extreme-roots
The biggest variable here is how different the single process color is from your natural color. A client who is 100% gray and colors here hair black will see gray roots within days and brunette who bleaches here hair blonde will see dark roots within days as well.
 
Highlights 2 – 4 months
This is when select hair strands are colored leaving the other hair not colored. Highlights don’t always have to mean blonde, but blonde highlights are the most common. There are various techniques to highlighting hair, most common is the foiling technique where sections of hair are woven out and hair color is applied to those hairs and separated from the rest of the hair by a piece of foil. 
Subtle-Highlilghts
Balayage techniques can be lower maintenance because these highlights are hand painted on with a lighter stroke close to the scalp but the application gets heavier down the strand making the highlight grow in easier. 
The easiest grow in is an Ombré technique. The entire purpose of the Ombré is to have dark roots and light ends so essentially there are no roots to grow in. 
 ombre-drew
At our salon we do a lot of double hair color services, combining a Single Process Color and Highlights, sometimes it is to lighten dark roots and make the highlights blend better and sometimes it is to cover gray while still having variation. We usually do these clients’ Single Process at 6 weeks and then the double service with Single Process and Highlights at 3 months.
 
Stretching out your color service. 
There are different types of at home products to use in between color services, mostly to cover gray hair. There are powders, sprays, crayons, wands etc. We recently started carrying Color Wow to help our clients stretch out their services, it has been amazing, it comes in a compact and you apply it in between shampoos. 
 
Sometimes a client is really on a budget and by budget we aren’t always talking about money, clients can budget their time too, time is valuable and it can be hard to make it into the salon every 3 weeks (buy FYI most of our clients love coming in!) At Belle de Jour we strive to come up with solutions. If a client wants to do her own touch-up in between seeing us we will often times research at-home options for something that will help get the client by.
 ColorWOW
Bottom line is…. You don’t have to be a slave to your hair color! 

 

 

Quick Hair Finishing Tricks

At Belle de Jour Salon we do a lot of hair color, when clients come in for a color only service we want them to leave looking great, but since they are not scheduled for a styling service we have come up with some great tricks so our clients leave looking glamorous and beautiful in a short amount of time.gisele

Velcro Rollers – They may sound old fashioned to you but they are fabulous for smoothing out frizzy hair and giving a finish that looks like you spent a lot of time round brushing. Rough dry hair until it is almost dry and then take 1 – 2  inch sections of hair, slide the roller down the section of hair neatly wrapping the ends around the roller then roll it up with a good bit of tension, clip in place as needed, spray with a soft hold styling spray, I like Imperméable Anti-Humidity Spray by Oribe because we have a lot of humidity here in Atlanta. Blow dry the velcro rollers on a hot setting for about 5 minutes, then let them cool down for 10 minutes (this is a great time to do your make-up, drink your coffee, do your oil pulling 😉 or just relax) Take them down and rake your fingers through your hair. Think Victoria Secret model hair.
velcro
InStyler IQ  – This is a professional rotating iron, a hot tool that looks like a hybrid of a curling iron, flat iron and a brush. Again, I would rough dry the hair and to speed up the drying time I spray Royal BlowOut by Oribe. When hair is 100% dry but ends look unruly, pass the InStyler over them it will give the hair a soft bend on the ends that looks very polished and perfect. FYI be sure to buy the InStyler IQ it is the professional series and it blows the other ones away, really no comparison.
INSTYLER-PROIS-1000-2T
The Ponytail Trick – This is my all time favorite trick, I have been WOWing clients at the salon with this for years! Rough dry hair 100% and pull your hair up on top of your head in a silly ponytail like you would to wash your face, Take a curling iron to your ponytail, you should be able to do this in 5 – 6 sections, it makes it so easy to curl all of your hair, which can be very overwhelming for girls with thick long hair who have a hard time reaching/seeing the back. Take your ponytail down, shake it out and voilà soft loose waves on your ends. I found this great tutorial on the web, check it out.
MUST-TRY-Pony-Tail-Curling-Trick-PrettyGossip-1024x695

Curly Hair Hatred

I have watched women for years pull their curly hair straight, some with incredible skill and some… not so much.frizzy
What is frustrating to me as a hair stylist is seeing a client walk in the salon a frizzy mess because she made a lame attempt at drying her hair straight . I spoke to a client about coming up with a curly hair plan and she said “No, I like it straight” and I had to tell her the reality is her “straight” was not good enough. She saw the curly hair light and left with some amazing Oribe products.
Oribe-Curl-Care
Fabulous new products are designed to keep your curls together and soft. For naturally curly hair that needs to be controlled we are huge fans of Curl by Definition and Curl Shaping Mousse both by Oribe. These wonderful products could be your game changer and you too may be able to embrace your curls. Let the romance begin!
JLoOribeGirl-CurlyCheck out JLo’s beautiful curls!

What Smart Brides Know

Last Saturday the salon was buzzing with beautiful positive energy and the excitement of a bridal party and I must say that the entire bridal party walked out looking fabulous!

That being said let me tell you what smart brides know. They know that they need a game plan and that their hair needs to look fabulous before they show up for their Bridal Hair appointment. This beautiful bride, Carlie, was on it, when she got engaged we began working toward softer more natural looking highlights, we knew she wanted to be light but not too light so we took her to a very soft believable blonde. She also let her hair grow because we wanted to have a lot of options and the longer her hair was the more options we would have.

gausviklr

In the last few appointments before the wedding we played with different Updo ideas like half up and side swept curls but decided to leave it down with a full head of glamorous curls. Keep in mind that it was April in Atlanta and the weather can be hot and humid so having glamorous curls that will hold can be tricky so we practiced different curling techniques like a velcro roller set but the curls needed to be locked in stronger. We experimented with curling her entire head with the curling iron using Oribe’s Soft Lacquer Heat Styling Spray for hold and to protect her hair, we carefully removed each curl from the barrel of the curling iron and pinned it in place like a roller set and put her under an old fashioned hot hooded dryer for 30 minutes with a 30 minutes cool down. It may sound extreme but we had a plan and it worked beautifully!

I highly recommend having a relationship with your salon and a talented stylist/colorist for a couple of reasons:

1) You hair will look fabulous
2) You will be relaxed and confident on your big day
3) If they know and love you it will be super fun for your entire bridal party

Lucky for us all we know the entire bridal party and were able to have their hair color and cuts fabulous before they walked in for the big day which made them extra fabulous on their way out!

gausviks

It’s Prom Season!

I have found in my years of doing Event Hair in Atlanta, prom girls can be the toughest! They are young, they are beautiful and they are very particular! Updos are a speciality, just because someone is a hair stylist does not mean that they are an event hair specialist, it takes so much more than talent to do event hair, it takes outstanding communication skills.

My personal favorite crazy teen hair story was when my baby sister went to salon for Prom Hair and told the stylist what she wanted but hated the finished product,  she was so uncomfortable with her hairstyle but she didn’t say anything, instead she paid the bill, tipped the stylist and walked out to the car crying only to go home and redo her hair. What a waste of time, money and emotions!

At Belle de Jour Salon we have fabulous stylists who communicate well. Meghan did the event hair for this beautiful prom girl and Colleen did her flawless event make-up, the client left feeling thrilled, beautiful and confident!katie prom